Showing posts with label kiwis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kiwis. Show all posts

Wednesday, 4 March 2020

My Little Wee Irish Life

Feb 16 2020, and we've been in Ireland for a full year now.

People often ask me 'So are you loving living in Ireland?'

I always find that really difficult to answer.

'Oh it's grand, much like home, but colder.'

But there's a major difference for me: I'm disconnected here.

No social obligation, no people I have to see, regardless of how much I do or do not want to. It is impossible to visit my grandmothers, and they never reply to my letters, so there's no obligation to write more. No one to say I'm going to catch up with...and then never actually do it.

Initially, it feels like freedom! There's so much available time and a whole vast new city to ingratiate myself to.

In the lack of hosting and attending social gatherings, other parts of my personality have come to the fore.

2019 was the year of embracing my introvert, and 2020 is shaping up to be the same.

I grew up in a family of introverts, and while I adore the blissful peace of being in their presence, I do not identify as an introvert, and have spent many hours and awkward conversations trying to work out their motivations (or lack thereof) and what makes them tick. I have a theoretical understanding, and love the insight, wisdom, calm and depth they bring to my life.

I would consider myself extremely extraverted, energised by people, and obsessed with making connections. It is often joked in my immediate family that I stole all the extravert, and there was none left for my three younger brothers. I certainly do enjoy the depth and philosophy of my inner introvert though. The part of me that likes to gaze at the clouds and people watch. The part of me that likes to come up with theories about life - life is like boogie boarding, life is like chewing gum - a few features from my teen years. The part of me that likes to muse on 'but where did we come from?' and the part of me that likes to write.

One of the parts of moving countries that I was looking forward to the most was having more time to write. I knew I definitely would have more time to write because when you move, your world shrinks: you're disconnected.

My world - being my social circle - has definitely shrunk. It's like a blank slate, and you get to entirely reinvent yourself, like a new outfit in a wardrobe, you get to choose which version of you you want to be.

After a little while the reality of being disconnected sinks in. It is, in a lot of ways, horrible. You have no friends, you have no one to call if you want to go shopping, you have no one to get new job leads from, you have no one to randomly go for a drink with, no one to just chill and watch a movie with, no one to help orient you around your new home. Who do you ask about where to get vacuum cleaner bags from when Google is sketchy with the answer?

Sure, I've been out and I have met a bunch of cool people, and we have some really beautiful beginnings of friendships.

All this has been hard for my extraverted side. I feel like I have been socially castrated. My discussion circle had shrunken. The input for a vast range of perspectives has disappeared. I don't currently have my gaggle of girls to guzzle Gewurztraminer with and gather to gossip and gritque (go with it) the latest gripping book.



No one I've met here yet seems to fully 'get' me, nor I them, and I feel like I'm playing blind man's bluff trying to figure out how to be cool and get people to like me. Like if we had to move again, we'd probably just do it  by ourselves you know?

And as for moving bodies... well.


New Normals


I really enjoyed 2018. I had a vast array of interactions with a vast array of teachers, students, and parents in my professional life, as I was relief teaching between 10 different schools rather than in one classroom, as well as tutoring 16 different students after school. 2018 was full of bouncing around between different schools, thousands of different people and different expectations and normals. I was fiesty, flexible and fabulous!

I would be doing phonics with five-year-olds one day and then coaching cricket with too-cool-for-school tweens the next. Most importantly: I was pretty boss at all of this. This was within my comfort zone and it was satisfying and really validating to be able to walk into nearly any classroom and have a good day.

Don't you love/hate it when people remind you how good it is to grow but you feel like you're slowly being crushed under the weight of this new knowledge??


People's different expectations of themselves, life, others fascinates me. They way they do life and how they interact with others is nuanced and individual. Each set of normals has its own pros and cons, and I have made it my life's mission to try and steal other people's brilliant normals. Each set of normals has its own behaviour that is encouraged and conversely shunned. I adjusted and adapted, but held largely to my harsh-but-fair-scathingly-sarcastic-firm-but-fun teaching self. Some schools I was not a good fit in, and because I was going between so many different ones, it was easy to rationalise it as 'I am not a good fit in that school' rather that 'They don't want me to work there again? There must be something wrong with me.'

One way to explain this is a values match or a values clash. I did a really interesting exercise when I was seeing a psychologist a while back where she got me to map out what things I valued from this list.


She got me to choose 5 that were super important to me, 8 that were quite important, 5 that were super unimportant, and 8 that were unimportant, and 10 or so that were important.

My chart looked something like this:

(Lauren's Values c. 2014, age 27. Chart may be slightly exaggerated for journalistic purposes)
And she took one look at it and said 'is teaching the right fit for you?' Particularly the school I was working in at the time - the Quite Unimportant list were values that were integral at that school, and thus I did not fit in. My values were not aligned.

If I were to do that exercise again now, a little older, with a bit more teaching experience, a bit more life experience and a very opposite-to-me husband, the list would look quite different now. My normal has changed quite a bit since I was a 27 year old beginning teacher with crippling anxiety living in Auckland.

My normal has changed quite a bit even just in the last year. Moving is big. Moving countries is bigger. Leaving your job is big. Leaving your career is bigger. We've ticked off 5 major stress events in the last 5 years according to this internet list of stressful things, and my score is a soaring 446 of a possible 600 on the Holmes and Rahe Stress test, if you include getting married 2.75 years ago.

So slowing down has been good, necessary, strange, blissful, weird and kind of like that first deep breath as you relax in a nice warm bath.

This is my new normal...

It has taken a bit of getting used to, but I'm starting to enjoy this new normal of a small, little, quiet life. The pace of my life has changed a lot. Not only am I working part time, but I'm working less intensely. 

My introverted side is in heaven. 

I spend a LOT of time in my own head at the moment, for better or for worse.

I have 1.5 week days a week to write, where I have the whole apartment to myself.

I work as a nanny, and I have few colleagues. I have a boss now who is intimately interested in what I do in a day. I get paid to cook and play hide and seek and make sure homework is completed. I get paid to appropriately apportion time on the trampoline and ensure that rooms are tidy, and paint and craft. I get paid to parent someone else's darlings. 

I didn't realise how much I enjoyed sharing situations I found myself in and having colleagues confirm (or deny) that I'd done the right thing, until I couldn't do that anymore.

It can a daunting thing having only yourself to rely on, your thoughts, values, judgements, beliefs, your modus operandi, your ways of moving and being.

This is more daunting when you realise that your thoughts and values are not the same as those around you. I used to take delight in being a little 'out of the box', now it seems like a liability. 

Professionally and personally, I have so much choice about what I do with my time. It is simultaneously wonderful and weird. Once the 'must dos' are ticked off, there's a bit of flexibility, which usually gets channelled into calming the chaos of the home rather than any personal projects. 

My introverted parts have had very little air time since I started teaching in 2012; I haven't had time for them. More than that - I didn't have spare mental bandwidth.

You do also spend a lot of time in your own headspace teaching - but there's little to no room for your own thoughts. Teaching is in a lot of ways is quite a lonely profession. Despite being surrounded by people, you spend a lot of time planning, thinking about your own class and your own expectations and your own normals, and your interpretations of the curriculum, and your students behaviour.

Now my head is not constantly assessing and reassessing and reflecting and inquiring about all my students the hamster wheel that is my brain is at a bit of a loss as to what to be pondering about next.

Some of this time is now spent drafting an array of literature in my head - from children's stories to novels to self-help books. Some of it is spent doing a constant compare and contrast between Ireland and New Zealand. Some of it is spent philosophising about life like I did as a teenager... and wondering about the new normals I am creating for myself - are they going to lead to long-term happiness? What would life be like if everyone did have a Universal Basic Income? Are morphic fields real? Should I take a self-proclaimed expert economist seriously? How even does the economy work? I'm pretty sure it's just smoke and mirrors and 'confidence'. Could I write comedy? Why are the body corp. of our apartment building so angsty about car parks when there's 20 free spaces that NOBODY USES EVER? How long until the USA implodes in on itself because it's taken advantage of it's most vulnerable for too long? Why can't I single-handedly solve the homeless crisis and world hunger?

You know... the usual.

Laos


I have lived overseas before. It's fascinating looking at what is similar and different about this time and last time, given the circumstances were so very different. 

2008 I moved to Laos, a tropical third world country with pot holed mud roads and beautiful, friendly, kind people. I made some great friends there, and some great memories.

I wrote a lot of travel updates about my adventures in Laos, but not really anything much else, although I did start an autobiography of sorts - imagine thinking at 21 that I had a story to tell then! If only I had known what was in store...

I did a lot of travelling for work, and did a lot of reading whilst waiting for planes, and buses, and waiting to see government officials in far away villages.

My room was fastidiously cleaned because I had basically no clothes, and so this lack of stuff led naturally to a lack of clutter. I was also wary of giant spiders as big as my hand, which appeared on a weekly basis through the gap between where the walls joined the ceiling. My bed was made and my mosquito net securely overlapped by 1m so that there was definitely not going to be any nasty surprises when nestled in my bed.

Having to deck out a kitchen from scratch is expensive, so I existed with a chopping board, 2 glasses and 4 plates, and a basic cutlery set.

Time moved slower, because there was so much less to fill up the time. There was work and home, and trying to call people at home at a time that didn't suck for one of you, and little else initially.

Exploring... there was a lot of exploring. Just getting on my motorbike and going, seeing what there was to see. I slowly added ultimate frisbee, rugby, swimming and teaching English in the evenings.

My love of food mandated that there was food tourism in lots of the local restaurants and I discovered truisms like it is impossible to recreate a first time experience, and living like a Westerner in a third world country is a surefire way to be broke.

I got massages nearly every week. It was epic.

There was a barrier between me and Lao people in language, but also in ways of thinking, ways of being, ways of doing things, in what is considered polite, dress, appearance... Everything. And so, when no longer hemmed in by my society's rules, and not really knowing the rules of the society I lived in, I started to go a little crazier than normal - one day doing cartwheels down the street just because I could - nearly causing a Lao guy riding past on his motorbike to crash at the sight.

Culture shock hit, hard, and I was deeply lonely, disconnected and depressed. I cried at the drop of a hat and no amount of 'trying to make the best of it' seemed to work.

Enter: Ireland


I thought Ireland would be different. I'm older, experienced, married, a professional.

There are echos of similarity though.

Things are just a little bit different. People are just a little bit different.

Everything is in miniature here. Our 'spacious' two bedroom apartment is smaller than our pre-renovated house in New Zealand. The roads are narrow, and footpaths crowded with signs half way across. Bars are cramped and crowded, and there is nowhere to dance.

Time bends, and the only person I really have to air my thoughts to is Jared and whoever is on the other end of the video chat on any given day for an hour or so.

It feels like a different universe to the plethora of people we had in Whanganui; different friends over each night, hosting parties and being involved in clubs, having family nearby, and friends in any city in NZ that I care to go to.

It's not that I haven't wanted to join clubs, but we're limited - financially, geographically, and time wise so it does make joining clubs harder. However, I am currently researching choirs and signed up to a dance class to start Monday night.

The gym is 10 minutes away, but despite its closeness, it still seems like Herculean task to go.

If I have a disagreement with Jared - thankfully seldom to never - I don't really have anyone here to talk to about that.

I have gone from a classroom about 25 different children each day to 3 children that I look after in much more depth and detail than any of my previous students.

I have gone from 60 hour weeks teaching full time in New Zealand, to 30 hours on a cruisy week, and 40 on a busy one.

My wardrobe had shrunk. I have only recently started adding some clothes to my wardrobe for the first time in over a year. I am now more discerning before I add things to my wardrobe - the criteria is 'what purpose does this serve' rather than just 'aww that's cute, I wonder if it fits'.

Money, possibly money that should be saved - is siphoned off for travelling or adventures as soon as humanly possible. Next adventure: Scotland and Liverpool at Easter.

The only thing that seems to have gotten bigger is my commute - Dublin is much bigger than Whanganui, which means more places to explore, but longer commutes.

You know the 'Am I the Asshole?' type conversations - the ones where you're trying to work out if it is you that is in the wrong by some unlikely happenstance - I do not have many people here to hash that out with, and the criteria for being an asshole is just a bit different. For those who thought I was a bit full on in New Zealand, I have the social nuance of a lead balloon here.

I have significantly less stress here. There is a certain amount of stress that comes with moving countries, but it is still less than your average year of teaching in New Zealand.

Because our apartment is so small, it is significantly easier to clean, and so that happens more often.

We have basically no bench space, cupboard space or fridge space so we eat less, so hopefully eventually I'll shrink as well - I yoyo a lot at the moment, but trending downwards.

Due to the significantly decreased strain on my brain, I can feel it turning to mush in some ways. I tried to do maths yesterday and had to seriously think about it way more than I was used to.

However, the brilliant bit about this slow paced tiny little life is I can finally hear myself think again. I used to write poetry, I used to have ideas, I used to spend a lot of time creating theories and philosophising, and then I started teaching and most of that got sidelined, as teaching is all-consuming that when you're not teaching, you're planning or you're recovering from teaching. It is potentially just the way that I do teaching, in a boots and all kind of manner, but I think it is bigger than that. It is the culture of teaching in New Zealand - if you're not 110% in then you're a crappy teacher.

I took a summer off from teaching and worked in my step-dad's honey shed over the 2015 summer and because my brain got to have a rest from incessantly analysing children and planning lessons, I composed - in my head, though not yet on paper - this whole series of children's books about bees and how honey is made, and all these brilliant learning experiences that I was going to create when I went back to teaching.

Some of them I followed through on, most of them I forgot about in the whirlwind.


The Advantages of a Quiet Life


I remember listening to a brilliant TED talk about stopping learning and starting thinking. He spoke of how Albert Einstein came up with his best theories, not when he was a paid academic, but when he was an office clerk, doing boring repetitive work.



In the same way a field needs time to be fallow in order to produce the best fruits, a brain needs downtime away from constant stimulation in order to come up with its most brilliant things. Learning is important, I love learning - in fact you can even rearrange my name to 'u learn' - but there is a time to stop learning and start thinking.

I think that this is what we miss about dead end repetitive jobs - particularly manual labour jobs - the time to think, the time to dream, the time to compose and create.

If work is your only and sole focus, then yea, a dead end repetitive job is lame, but if work is something you do to be able to finance the rest of your life, a dead end repetitive job is gold, and allows for ample time and headspace to be able to plan your life or compose your next book.

I have been away from the environment of a classroom for 15 months now, and I do miss it. There is something brilliant about creating learning activities for students. It feels like a super power when it goes right. But the way teaching takes over your headspace, and the way you take work, and children's dilemmas home with you, it takes over your whole mental bandwidth. It is a lifestyle not a job.

It is delightful to have some bandwidth spare, to do something other than life admin and teaching. It feels like coming up to breathe.

It is this beautiful reawakening of this fallow creative soul that has only had an outlet in creating lesson plans, but is now allowed to think and dream and create, this is the part that I'm really enjoying about living in Ireland.

So while I rail against this tiny little life and my Extra AF Extravert side is hell-bent on expanding this peaceful tiny existence, I'm trying to sit and be OK with the smallness, and embrace the enough.


And so like my teaching persona that I put on in a classroom, perhaps I have an Irish persona, a calm quiet life that I have in Ireland, free of the fun and frivolity of midnight spas, but also full of philosophising and drafting things to go in the Winter Papers.

At least a few chapters into my first book, so watch this space.


And what about you?

What is 2020 the year of for you? What have you done when you've had a values clash? What are your top 5 values? Have you moved countries? How long did it take you to feel like not-an-alien? What things have you been musing about lately? Do you have any theories about life? Lay them on me, I'd love to hear them.



Extra Reading:

The masks we wear - interesting if harrowing read
https://psychcentral.com/blog/the-10-masks-we-wear/

Extrovert vs extravert
https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/beautiful-minds/the-difference-between-extraversion-and-extroversion/





Saturday, 7 December 2019

2019 Nutshell

It has been nearly a year since mum dropped us off at Auckland airport, so what have we been doing in that time?

Here is our 2019 in brief. 

January 



After frantically packing up our house, we flew to Los Angeles stayed with some friends I've not seen in about a decade,  and explored every corner of the city in 5 short days. We skipped the walk of fame but did get to Malibu, the Getty Villa, the SS Iowa, La Brea tar pits, California space center and the Natural History Museum.

Hollywood in Auckland Airport to actual Hollywood



La Brea Tar Pits

And people say I have a big mouth

Waiting for the LA Philharmonic to start

USS Iowa

Docked near Long Beach, it is a sight to behold. 




The Getty Villa is simply stunning - it is a recreation of a villa believed to be owned by Julius Caesar's Father in law




Sunset at Santa Monica Pier from the ferris wheel
Santa Monica Beach
The lovely Lyndon and Beth hosted us, and Lyndon got us cheap tickets to the LA Philharmonic performance of John Williams soundtrack show - the one where he would be conducting a special happy birthday rendition to the resident conductor of the LA Phil.

Us outside Walt Disney Concert Hall

We were in the Choir Stalls, could practically read the music over the musicians' shoulders! Very cool to see the mechanics of it all.

We enjoyed watching an American football game - the Probowl - at an American bar, drinking American beer, eating American pizza, being befriended by Americans who were very curious about New Zealand.

Highlight: torn between seeing the LA philharmonic play the music of John Williams from Jaws, Harry potter, Star Wars, Hook and more and looking out over LA from the Griffith Observatory by the Hollywood sign.

View from Griffith Observatory, on the hill by the Hollywood sign

Lowlight: Thinking because of the government shut down our ESTA status hadn't cleared and having major panics. Also frantically trying to get everything sorted with our house before we left the country.

From there, we went to Las Vegas. 


February 


Las Vegas

Las Vegas the expensive, gawdy beacon shining in the middle of the desert.
Cirque du Soliel - Mystere

The shows are definitely worth it - Cirque du Soleil's Mystere and Absinthe - would highly recommend.





Somewhere near Caesar's Palace


Absinthe Show

More from the Absinthe Show - male pole dancing

At Caesar's Palace

Chillin in the spa at Treasure Island

Out and about on the Strip

Somewhere near our hotel, just chillin on the sidewalk

In New York New York after the rollercoaster there - it is EPIC!

Finally a high heel that might fit me ;)


Trying twinkies at the Neon light graveyard... very average

There's a 5 storey m&m shop on the Strip

We explored lots of casinos, decided the lines for a bunch of rides were too long, tried some gambling with a modest amount of money, got tricked into going to an after party for the Lady Gaga concert as Lady Gaga was supposed to be there - it was feasible-ish - she was playing mere metres away from that club.

Paris, in Las Vegas - the real Paris is obviously better

Freemont St in Old Town part of Las Vegas. There was a 3 hour line for the zip line along the roof, so we enjoyed the lights instead.



30th Birthday Crew ready to paaaaartaaaaay!


I was definitely not the shiniest thing at any point in LV.

We enjoyed escaping to the country to catch up with Jared's friend and his family for a day, having BBQ and playing with guns. It was the quintessential American experience. (The Americans didn't like it when I made them pick up all the gun casings from the bullets though.)  When asked about my (Lauren's) reticence around guns, I explained what happened with my brother, and how I vehemently disagree with the American philosophy on guns for fun, however despite my soap box moment, I was pleased to know that I was still quite a good shot.  








Little Harvey and the lovely Heather


Mayer and his Nana - kiwi girl from Gizzy I believe, but now living with her whanau in Moapa.

We journeyed around the Grand Canyon and stopped at the Hoover dam on the way.  It's the finest dam Jared had ever damn seen.



What a damn sexy man ;)

We then proceeded on to meet up with Jane and Marie, and it started snowing when we were nearly there.  We were passed by a BMW going too fast, and caught up to it about half an hour later, where it had had a close encounter of the tree kind. It snowed about a foot overnight and Jane's dreams of tramping in then sleeping in the Grand Canyon were halted, so we ended up spending 2 days in a crappy hotel room in the Grand Canyon Village, Lauren as sick as a dog. 






Grand Canyon

About a foot of snow fell overnight and we were to all intents and purposes snowed in.

We caught a bus to the village centre, the others went to the information centre but I was too sick, so went back and slept.


We ventured out to another lodge later that night for dinner, and saw a glimpse of the canyon from the restaurant just as the sun was going down. It was very magical!

So before we departed the following day, we made sure we go as close to the Canyon as possible and basked in its snow-dusted beauty.




Something like -10 degrees Celsius low overnight











We had planned to circumnavigate the Grand Canyon, but there was too much snow, so we bailed on our plans to do that. We drove south with the girls to Flagstaff, Arizona for Jane's birthday breakfast pancakes at IHOP. They continued to [some amazing National Park], while we headed back to Las Vegas and onto New York.




We stayed another night in Las Vegas with Matt and Heather before jetting off to New York.


New York

New York was equal parts amazing and tragic. We loved the architecture and the general grandeur. The views from the Rockefeller and the Empire State Building were spectacular and a tribute to man's creation. I loved the subway system but the people we met on the subway, begging for food and money was a damning indictment on one of the richest nations in the world and how they (do not) take care of all those in their society. This was an echo of the tent city on Venice Beach in LA, and was hard to stomach.




We procured a City Pass and went to the 9/11 memorial, the Met (far too briefly), Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty (I was shocked by how small it was in real life).


Mangled truck at 9/11 memorial

The subway to get off at BW - Broadway baby!

Time Square - very close to Broadway, didn't realise this before




View from the Top of the Rock

 I, Lauren, had my birthday in New York and we went to see Aladdin, then to a dessert buffet in a rotating restaurant and there were fireworks - for me, obviously - on the Hudson River while we were there!  We also were able to get along to see Jeff Daniels in Aaron Sorkin's To Kill a Mockingbird.  It was a powerful performance.  (If you don't know who those people are, Jared or Michelle are disappointed but will school you up.)

We went to see Aladdin for my birthday!


|Dessert buffet
Grand Central Station

Us at Grand Central

Not sure what this is, but it looks fun!


Not as big as I thought it was...

Us on Liberty Island, looking back at Manhattan Island

I mean it's really just a stylish Smurf right?

The main immigration centre for a long time, on Ellis Island, processed millions from 1892, before closing in 1954
 
Just a small town boy...

Jackson Pollock at the Met

Hard Rock Cafe before a comedy gig
 It snowed a lot while we were New York, which was magical, but slippery. One disappointment was the free ice skating I was hoping to do while we were there was free.... you had to pay to hire the boots and store your stuff so would've ended up being about US$50, so we skipped that.


Snow in Central Park - we were staying quite close so walked from our accommodation to the Met

Somewhere in Central Park



Museum of Natural History - East Coast edition
We also had Valentine's Day in New York. Jared organised that night and we were treated to a 3 course meal and a live Jazz band in the Bronx. It was thoroughly delightful!





Final day- Walking over the Brooklyn Bridge


Our final day in New York was crossing culinary things of our to eat list - we had alcoholic ice cream, cookie dough sundaes, but didn't quite make it to design-your-own Macaroni cheese.

Cookie Dough Sundae

LOVE me some good badges! or buttons...

Near Madison Square Gardens

Just so many pretty buildings everywhere!

The Empire State Building - all 102 floors of it! 

View from the top towards the Hudson (?)

Alcoholic ice cream yeeyah!


Dublin

Feb 16 we arrived in Dublin. Dublin was quite warm compared to New York, and it felt much closer to home. Arriving here was like stepping back in time in terms of architecture, and we were soon to find out, in terms of infrastructure. Dublin has lots of quirky back alleys and funky art studios, and is simultaneously parochial and progressive.
Guinness in Dublin tastes different - it tastes lighter and smoother

Along the River Liffey in Dublin - buildings aren't allowed to be more than 5 storeys high to maintain the 'look' of Dublin
Jared started work on Feb 20 so we figured we'd be able to find a place in a few days now that we were actually on the ground. Prior to arriving, we hadn't even received responses from adverts. After arriving, it was a 1 in 10 rate of reply for a viewing time that we may or may not be able to make.

No.

Pre-dawn light from Monkstown, where we had our first non-hotel accommodation in a month

Monkstown Castle remains - which some random old guy came and showed us around.
Dublin rental market is insane (please refer to this article about how it is the worst city in the world for expats to be securing accommodation). After a dozen viewings and putting in a few offers on places we decided to broaden our search in terms of geography and price range.

We secured a temporary premises in Monkstown so we could get out of a hotel and cook our own food, and found somewhere in Lucan for €1450 (~2500NZD) a month. It seemed nice, so we made an offer, and they accepted it.

A church in Monkstown looking eerie in the pre-dawn fog

Poolbeg towers from Monkstown

Highlight: 2 shows on Broadway, arriving in Dublin, and exploring our new home.

Lowlight: Guy with newly amputated arm on New York subway begging for money as his job let him go, not even asking for money, just wanted someone to talk to him and make eye contact. It was absolutely heartbreaking.

March

March 1 we moved into our apartment in Lucan. It was not very nice after all it turned out. The owners had done a hodge-podge job of transforming an office block into apartments, and there were many problems including random wires hanging from random places to the hot water in the shower only working intermittently. The clincher was living there for 2 months and still not being able to get internet connected because there were no new connections available as our neighbours upstairs had taken the last one.

Did not count on tiny fridges when we were collecting magnets from everywhere we went





March was full of painful life admin. We had to pay our first 2 months plus deposit in cash from our NZ bank account as it took us an age to be able to get an Irish bank account.

The bankers were very proud of how hard they'd made it - it kept the criminals out of the banking world.

Briefly the process went like this:

  • Go to bank
  • Say 'We'd like to open an account - here's every piece of legal paper in life that matters.'
  • No that's not enough, you need to also have X
  • But we have Y
  • No, that's not enough you need to go, make an appointment with A, and then wait probably another 1-2 weeks to get X
Then an appointment and a week later, 

  • Ok, we have X now, can we open an account?
  • Lolno, we also need Q and Z
  • But I can't get those until I have a bank account
  • That seems like a you problem

Eventually An Post Banking submitted some address evidence for us that they knew wouldn't be accepted - and An Post sent us a letter that said 'what you sent us was unacceptable, but if you return the bottom part of this letter that we've sent to your address, then that counts as proof of address'. So simple, so effective, job done. 

This painful process was repeated for trying to get internet set up, and trying to get a job, and trying to get things done with our landlord - like get a mailbox so we could receive mail. 

March was cold, bleak and full of red tape. 

But in that time, we did make it to Draperstown, in County Derry, Northern Ireland. This is where Jared's family is from as we did some scoping to see if we could find anything further out. The answer was no, not really.

On the rocky road to Dublin, 1 2 3 4 5... Though actually heading to Belfast at this point

The road to Straw

One LPT to figuring out if you're in Republic or Northern Ireland - the NI phone boxes are red, ROI ones are green


We spent a morning walking around a graveyard in Straw, trying to find some of Jared's missing heritage. We didn't find anything much really, but we did find hurling.


The Straw Church

A Bradley of some flavour - there were hundreds of them - but none of the right flavour - we tasted them all


Hurling yeeyah! Gotta get me to a game at Croke Park
Hurling is this most brilliant sport that is like a combination of hockey, baseball and soccer, and hurlies are giant bad ass sticks that fling a solid af ball across a field at break neck speed and do bad ass stuff like this....


After the hurling we went to find someone who might've remembered one of Jared's great uncles. Turns out who he remembered had the right name, but was not the right person.

This is thought to be the road where some of Jared's forebears resided.
St Paddy's day is also worth a mention! We had our first St Patrick's day in Ireland and went into Dublin proper for the parade, and saw sweet fa, then came back out to Lucan where it had a delightfully small town feel to it, much more reminiscent of Whanganui.

Crossing Ha'penny bridge

One of the few floats that wasn't a marching band from the States

Fun fact: most of the harps in Ireland are backwards for the govt logos because Guinness patented the harp symbol sitting the correct way.

This is the guy tried to convince us all the famous people we knew were Irish and went one for one with Jared, after J was already 2 whiskeys in.
Around this time I started working at Finnstown Castle Hotel as a waitress. It was alright, but their resounding lack of organisation drove me insane, and the 6am starts which required a 4:30 am wake up on my part were hard.


Highlight: Visiting Draperstown before Brexit, Getting a job at a castle, albeit minimum wage and 20 hours a week.

Lowlight: BANKS



April


April was full of working, getting frustrated with the shit systems or lack of systems that permeated every facet of this workplace, and applying for other jobs.

We watched a lot of Father Brown, and hotspotted from our mobiles to get internet in our apartment. Thankfully 20GB mobile data is a standard part of prepaid plans here.

We went for a weekend adventure to Maynooth, and found a beautiful campus.


And I fell in love with this tree!


Celtic Nights gave us a taste of Irish dancing and song and a beautiful three course meal to celebrate Jared's birthday.
Convenient when one's birthday falls on Easter and one loves chocolate



The warmer weather enticed us to some outdoor adventures and we discovered the beauty of Bray Head.





Highlight: Jared actually getting paid, after working for 6 weeks, and between us, our first pay since December.

Lowlight: Job hunting - apparently my CV is too extra for Ireland.



May


I started working in a creche in mid-May. It was slightly less shit than hospitality, but did involve more real life actual shit. The hours were better, the staff were great. The management were dysfunctional and the systems, again, were shit or nonexistent. 

We spent a lovely weekend in London with Debra and Geoff, and it was so very lovely to see them! We went to The Mouse Trap and also Matilda, and a lovely river cruise along the Thames. 

The Mouse Trap is the longest running show in the West end and the world

We dined in Chinatown, much to Jared's ambivalence

We stayed at a hotel in the West End and it came with a... toy?

Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery

Trafalgar Square has lions


Westminster Castle


Tower Bridge

Mid-afternoon espresso martini 

Exploring Camden Markets

Flying into Dublin

Alas, half of our trip was getting to and from London Southend Airport which is in actual fact nowhere near London at all.

Malahide Castle was on our list of local places to explore, and it was certainly worth the venture. It is set on 260 acres of beautiful, well kept grounds, including an international cricket pitch. We were able to get in for a guided tour and it was worth it, it's a very interesting place.  It was lived in until fairly recently (1975) and dates back around 800 years. It was the rally point for the Irish armies of King James II as they prepared for battle against William of Orange (See Derry Girls, Season 1, Episode 5 for information on how that turned out for the Irish).  Also, Butterfly house and International garden, including an Australian and NZ section.













We also moved in May. We decided that enough was quite enough and not being able to have a functional internet connection was a deal-breaker for us. Jared was exhausted from leaving at 6:30am and not being able to get home until 7:30-8pm at night due to all the buses leaving town after 6pm being full by the time he went to catch them.

We found a really nice apartment in town with an extra bedroom, and proceeded to leave Lucan as quickly as humanly possible.








Customhouse Dublin on the Liffey


Highlights: New apartment that actual feels like a home, London cherry popped, and visiting Malahide castle.

Lowlight: Having to pay double rent for May/June during switch over or Ryan Air experience getting out of Southend London - £50 cab ride to get there on time and then flight delayed for 2 hours.



June

(Skip June, it largely sucked, with the exception of 24 hours in Galway)

June was wet and cold, and I was sick for nearly the entire month. My creche job let me go, which I was pissed off about, but definitely feeling like I'd dodged a bullet. It did mean that we had even less income in June and July than we'd anticipated, and a significant increase in rent from what we were paying in Lucan.

However, I did have the luxury of Kim and Kelsey. friends from Auckland, coming to visit from their temporary home in Edinburgh. Due to timetabling issues, we didn't really have much time to catch up, so long story short, I ended up in Galway with them.

So Jared caught the train over and we enjoyed 24 hours in Galway.



Galway is full of quaint wee buildings




The mouth of the Corrib River


I think Galway looks a lot like Wellington

Sitting at the river mouth


Memorial for the victims of the famine

The Corrib river used to be full of Salmon, but due to overfishing, has been severely depleted

Following the Corrib River up to the dam

Dam where the salmon swim up

I spent the whole month applying for jobs, getting interviews and then being told I'd been beaten out by an Irish person or someone with slightly more niche experience than me.

I did secure a summer job at a language school, but it didn't start until July. There is no apply for a job and yes please start tomorrow/next week here.

Highlight: Summer-ish evening at Howth having fish and chips on the beach at Claremont Beach.





Lowlight: €70 doctor's visits, perpetual sickness



July


I worked at a English Language school taking students from Spain, Italy, Mexico, Russia and Andorra all over Dublin to touristy activities such as Dublinia (Dublin's Viking History Museum), Dublin Castle, Butler's Chocolate Factory, up to Belfast a few times and many more places. It was very fun, and I met some quality people.
Castletown House in Celbridge

Irish National Stud...This is not one of the studs

St Patrick's Cathedral

Trinity College Library, over 300 years old

The Titanic Experience, Belfast

Model of Titanic

Protestant mural in honour of 'Top Gun' who killed the most Catholics in a year 
Bobby Sands, who died in the hunger strikes in the Troubles


The beautiful building that is the Belfast City Council

Viking Splash tour... This is my smile prior to the breakdown

Glendalough upper lake

Glendalough Lower Lake

Wicklow Jail showing what kinds of conditions prisoners endured if thrown in jail.

Bray Air Show

July was when a lot of good nannying jobs came about, and I secured a job for the start of the next academic year, nearing the end of August with a lovely family.

It didn't rain for the entire month of July and the Italians and Spanish still complained about the weather here.

Highlight: Belfast Taxi trip learning about the Troubles and also the Titanic Experience, meeting like minded people.

Lowlight: Failing to teach the chocolate game to Italian teenagers - the fuckers just stole the chocolate.


August


I managed to get a job working at a creche for the 3 week gap between my summer job and my nannying job, and it was the 3 week confirmation that I needed that early childhood teaching is not for me, not here at least.

I commenced my nannying job and knew at once that I'd made a really good move. I loved the freedom, the responsibility and the kids.

We went to Belfast for a day trip on August 3, and did the full version of the Black Taxi Tour with John which was very eye opening. The murals on the end of the housing rows show some progress towards togetherness and unity. Belfast is a really pretty city, and I adored the City Council Building.


The peace wall that divides Belfast


Belfast Rose Gardens

Queen's University
 We partook in a historical walking tour with someone from Dublinia about the old Viking city and the city walls. It was very interesting.
Vikings Mural with a map of the stars, by Smock Alley Theatre. Dublin was created as a city by Vikings.

The ancient city walls built when the 1200s when the Brits came and walled in the city.

 We also just went for a few good walks. One from Dalkey to Killiney Hill...

The view from Killiney Hill

 And another circumnavigating the Howth Peninsula, backwards and losing the trails haha.
View from a golf course atop the Howth Peninsula


I present Howth


Heather be the purple stuff methinks


Howth Cliffs

Howth Village

Highlight: Exploring Howth peninsula with my bae

Lowlight: Being told by an Irish mum that I wasn't 'nice' enough to her kid who threw a tantrum about everything and took great delight in hurting other kids, me and swearing when she didn't get her way.


September


Brendon and his friend Raukawa came to visit in September, which was awesome. We took a few days and went around Ireland in what can only be phrased as a whistlestop tour, circumnavigating most of the island in three days, and we then met them in London for a weekend a couple of weeks later.

This is a photo of the trip we did, minus the Giant's causeway in the far north.


Powerscourt House and Gardens




Us at Glendalough

Kilkenny Castle





Slea Head Road










We met Brendon and Raukawa in London for Brendon's birthday weekend, which was lovely, but monarchy is a weird thing.

Buckingham Palace

Picture Gallery in Kensington Palace

Hyde Park


On the London Eye



Westminster Abbey

A lot of my down time was spent compiling paperwork to put together my application for my Irish teaching registration.

I spent several weekends training to be part of a youth mentoring programme called Le Cheile (It's not pronounced how you think,unless you french I guess?) that mentors youth who are on probation, and also the families that support them.

Highlight: Road trip all over the Irish countryside with Brendon/Raukawa/Jared - although technically most of this was in August.

Lowlight: Dealing with Irish teacher's council and their obsession with paperwork.


October


In October, we had the delight of hosting Jess Julian, given Jared was really stressed out at work and I had more time off than him, we opted for me to meet Jess in Paris.



















The next weekend we all went on for a road trip around Ireland, bonding with other Kiwis over rugby. We trekked to Kylemore Abbey, pit stopped for a rugby game. The Cliffs of Moher were breath taking. Definitely go to the top - cheaper and better looking than the ferry.


Kylemore Abbey

Sunset from Galway

Cregg Castle

Doolin, by the Cliffs of Moher


Cliffs of Moher 


My nanny kids were aghast that I had never been trick or treating before, so invited me to come with them, and I did. It was a very sweet night.



Highlight: Montmatre Wine and Food festival and salsa dancing by the Seine at midnight.

Lowlight: Dealing with Irish Driver License issuers


November


Kat Davidson, a childhood friend, who happens to live in Ireland as well, came down to visit us and stay for a weekend, with her very adorable daughter Skylah. It was really lovely to reconnect and meet her now.

We spent a Friday night listening to the oratory pratings of Sean Rocks, the host of the RTE Arena 1 show, and I really enjoyed his way of questioning. It was thorough, well-researched and brought out these really great stories from these really great writers. I had forgotten how utterly lovely it is to hear well-put together words being read aloud by their authors. We went upstairs to the wine and schmooze evening afterwards and managed to meet Siobhan McSweeney, Sister Michael from Derry Girls, who was a contributing author.



November is now officially done, and to be honest, we didn't really do very much at all as we are saving for Christmas in Prague and still sending money home to subsidise our house.

Highlight: Going to the Dublin Book fair, listening to the RTE Arena show interviewing some of the authors from the Winter Papers book, and meeting Siobhan McSweeney, an actor from Derry Girls

Lowlight: Falling down half a flight of stairs and bruising my tush after a Christmas Party in front of all of my new friends!



In conclusion...

Things that we really love about Ireland


  1. Music on every street corner
  2. Their party spirit - getting into Pride parade, Halloween, Christmas
  3. Proximity to Europe
  4. Scenery of the Irish Countryside
  5. Public transport - it's really easy to live without a car here
  6. Great pubs, plenty of craic
  7. Proliferation of New Zealand wine 
  8. Living in the middle of the city - everything is on our doorstep
  9. Inclusiveness of other cultures by most
  10. Compassion and kindness are a big part of the ethos here

Things we loathe about Ireland


  1. General lack of functional systems - where the fix to us seems self-evident
  2. Cost of living in Dublin coupled with depression of wages and our relative need for belt tightening
  3. It is like stepping back in time living here in terms of technological advancements, and environmental awareness. Some pluses with this in terms of social stuff are that people are quite friendly.
  4. Flakiness of Irish friends - people are initially friendly, but difficult to make meaningful connections, as we're an optional extra for them.
  5. Humidity + cold = asthma
  6. Everything is so small and tightly packed - from groceries packaging sizes to housing to roads
  7. There are no extremes of anything - weather, emotions, effort...
  8. How much Ireland copies American social policy and the resulting poverty, homelessness and extortionist medical system
  9. There is no bona fide equivalent of The Warehouse or K Mart
  10. Unnecessary plastic packaging on maaaaaaany things, but mostly fruit and veg.

Things we dearly miss about New Zealand


  1. Our friends and whanau!
  2. Kiwi junk food. It is simply not worth the calories here
  3. Good beaches
  4. My car 
  5. Our house
  6. Functional internet
  7. Spaaaaaa
  8. Winter that only really lasts a couple of months
  9. Jacinda
  10. Foooood in general, but decent quantities, and also Vogels and Marmite, and good fish and chips.

My golly gosh and we still have another few weeks to go until the year has been seen out... so very much life has been fitted into this year, and oddly, it feels like much less than years previous. 

If you have made it all the way to the end of this epic epistle, then my heartiest congratulations and salutations. I trust you will have a delightfully merry Christmas and a thoroughly enjoyable New Year. 

We are heading off to Prague/Brno for Christmas and we'll be back in Dublin for New Year. 

I'm very much looking forward to bringing in 2020 and a whole brand spanking new year with new possibilities and hope of even more adventures!

Watch this space to see more of them here.